RovyVon has released a new, bigger light. It’s sort of a keychain light; bigger than their popular keychain series of lights, anyway.
This one’s still an Aurora. The aluminum you’ll see here is the A23, but there are others.
Official Specs and Features
The A23 is an anodized aluminum version. There’s also the A24 (titanium), and the A29 (brass). These are available in Cree XP-L HD and Nichia 219c. It’s also possible to purchase with or without tritium already installed.
The A23 goes for $46.95. The other two more special metals are more expensive. I hope to be running a group buy on the brass version soon!
This is a great little light. There’s no knurling and I thought that would make the light harder to handle, but it doesn’t. Also I like the clip a whole bunch – it’s a clip style I’ve tried to promote to makers. Output is good, and I like the TIR, too. Of course I like that brass is an option.
The Big Table
|Emitter:||Nichia 219c (4500K)|
|Price in USD at publication time:||$46.95|
|Turbo Runtime||High Runtime|
|Quiescent Current (A):||?|
|Power off Charge Port with no Cell?||While charging, all modes|
|Claimed Lumens (lm)||600|
|Measured Lumens (at 30s)||546 (91% of claim)*|
|Claimed Throw (m)||109|
|Candela (Calculated) in cd (at 30s)||317lux @ 4.582m = 6655cd|
|Throw (Calculated) (m)||163.2 (149.7% of claim)*|
|All my RovyVon reviews!|
* Measurement disclaimer: I am an amateur flashlight reviewer. I don’t have $10,000 or even $1,000 worth of testing equipment. I test output and such in PVC tubes!! Please consider claims within 10% of what I measure to be perfectly reasonable (accurate, even).
- RovyVon A23 Flashlight
- Split ring
- Charge cable (USB to micro-USB)
Package and Manual
The manual is an A4 sized paper with a couple of languages.
Build Quality and Disassembly
The most striking thing about the body of this light is that there is no knurling.
I thought that would impact grip, but it really hasn’t for me.
With the built in cell, it’s unlikely you’ll need to unscrew the head much. The threads are small, anodized, and fine. Without any grip it is hard to screw and unscrew the head.
The head has two springy contacts with hit two pads on the body.
The guts in the body come out with little effort, once the head is removed.
The guts hold much of the electronic components. Also this might not be the best look at them, but have a look at the tailcap loop below – there are two tritium slots here. One on each side.
The battery connects via a little jst style connector. If you need to disconnect this, I recommend using plastic tweezers!
Here’s a shot of the battery. More on this later.
The pcb in the body comes out of the plastic housing in the body easily too. The red/black wires connect across here.
When I disconnected the wires, I accidentally pulled these wires out of their connector. I recommend you not doing this. It’s both dangerous (since touching these together would short the cell) and very difficult to fix.
When I pushed the guts back into the body, I sheared off the button cover from the body. Be careful there too.
I did get it back together successfully.
Size and Comps
This light might not land in the “keychain” category for you, but it hits a nice sweet spot for me.
Retention and Carry
The pocket is the main way to carry the light. I really like this clip. It’s deep carry in an unusual way. The mouth is plenty big, particularly with the very smooth body. The clip screws down onto the body from the top.
The also-included lanyard could attach on the clip or through the loop in the tailcap. Same with the paracord.
Power and Runtime
The A23 is powered by a built in lipo battery. The battery is a 2.22Wh 600mAh battery, connected through a little jst-style connector.
It’s technically replaceable – in fact RovyVon has listed on their site the option to purchase a spare battery. I’ll be honest and say I don’t really recommend you expecting to change the battery often, or per-cycle or anything like that. Once the battery dies, then sure by all means. But in your day-to-day use of this light, don’t plan to change the battery. UPDATE: The replaceable battery is actually a complete swap of the guts. Not just the battery – so you don’t have to worry with the jst connector at all.
Here’s a runtime on Turbo. The stepdown is fairly dramatic but the light holds 150ish lumens for quite some time.
High also has a dramatic stepdown, from a ~400 lumen 30 second reading.
In both cases, the light exhibited LVP at around 2.9V. The manual says the light shuts off at around 2.4V. Yes that’s low for a LiIon but this is a lipo. Anyway runtimes don’t seem to take it that low. Also the charge port indicator is red when the battery is below 2.6V.
Since the light has a built in battery, of course it has on-board charging as well. The micro-USB port in the tail, opposite the screwed in clip. It has a silicone press-in cover. The cover is secure.
Here’s the included cable. It’s nice and short.
Charging proceeds at over 1A. It’s also very consistent. A full charge takes under 45 minutes. There’s a charge indicator under where the port cover connects to the light. Red means charging is active. Blue means charging is complete.
Modes and Currents
|Mode||Mode Claimed Output (lm)||Claimed Runtime||Measured Lumens||Tailcap Amps|
The modes are handled by the body side of the light, so my normal current testing doesn’t work. That’s why this section is blank.
Unfortunately PWM is present on the middle three modes. Or as u/parametrek pointed out on reddit, what we see on the High mode is “SMPS ripple.”
For reference, here’s a baseline shot, with all the room lights off and almost nothing hitting the sensor. And here’s the worst PWM light I have ever owned. Also one of the very first lights I ordered directly from China!
User Interface and Operation
The button is a side switch, just below the head. It’s a metal-cover e-switch. The metal button has a metal surround, which both gives a place to find with your finger, and helps prevent accidental presses.
It’s a very quite clicky button.
Here’s a UI table!
|Off||Double Click||On (mode memory)|
|On||Click||Mode advance (excluding moonlight)|
LED and Beam
The emitter in my copy is a Nichia 219c. That’s under a clear TIR, and the beam provided has a very pointed hotspot, flowing smoothly into spill.
These beamshots are always with the following settings: f8, ISO100, 0.3s shutter, and manual 5000K exposure.
Tint vs BLF-348 (Killzone 219b version)
I compare everything to the Killzone 219b BLF-348, because it’s inexpensive and has the best tint!
What I like
- Carries very well!
- Metal cover for the e-switch
- Cool location for trit slots
- On-board charging is good
What I don’t like
- Click 4x from off for moonlight is not ideal.
- Probably not the best to say it has a “replaceable” battery. It’s not really field-replaceable.
- This light was provided by RovyVon for review. I was not paid to write this review.
- This content originally appeared at zeroair.org. Please visit there for the best experience!
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