I reviewed the little brother to this M200 a while back – the M150. I liked it and I am pleased to be able to review the M200, an 18650 version of this light. It’s not exactly the same though, so read on for more info. In particular the UI has seen some impressive enhancements!
Official Specs and Features
There are at least two versions of this light. There’s a Cree XP-L HD version, and the Samsung LH351D version (seen here). Just one body, though.
Such a versatile light with a great emitter and a great UI. The array of cells it’ll support puts it in rarified air. The UI offers something for everyone, and for the cost of under $50, it’s a great deal!
The Big Table
|Emitter:||Samsung LH351D (5000K, 90CRI)|
|Price in USD at publication time:||$48.90, buy yours through my referral link at KillzoneFlashlights.com!|
|Turbo Runtime||High Runtime|
|Quiescent Current (A):||?|
|Charge Port Type:||Proprietary magnetic|
|Power off Charge Port with no Cell?||With cell: All modes.
Without cell: All modes except T1 (the highest mode).
|Claimed Lumens (lm)||1000 (possibly for the XP-L HD version)|
|Measured Lumens (at 30s)||809 (80.9% of claim)*|
|Candela per Lumen||6.2|
|Claimed Throw (m)||161|
|Candela (Calculated) in cd (at 30s)||280lux @ 4.334m = 5259cd|
|Throw (Calculated) (m)||145.0 (90.1% of claim)*|
|All my Skilhunt reviews!|
- Measurement disclaimer: I am an amateur flashlight reviewer. I don’t have $10,000 or even $1,000 worth of testing equipment. I test output and such in PVC tubes!! Please consider claims within 10% of what I measure to be perfectly reasonable (accurate, even).
- Skilhunt M200 Flashlight
- Charge cable (USB to proprietary magnetic)
- Spare o-rings (2)
- Magnet replacement rubber
- Pocket clip
- Manual and papers
Package and Manual
The manual offers a ton of information – I just wish page 4 was a little bit… bigger? clearer? or at least that the manual was available as a PDF so I could see it bigger.
Build Quality and Disassembly
Build quality is good. It’s maybe a little weird to say but the light is very active in hand. There’s always something going on that is noticeable. Basically the opposite of desensitisation – you never forget the light is in hand. Particularly with the pocket clip installed.
Everything on the light has a shape!
There’s not “knurling” but more of just ridges to aid with grip.
The tailcap has minimal but adequate grip area for removal. You might chose to never even remove the cell, though, since the light has built-in charging.
The cell tube is clearly a separate piece, but I was unable to detach it from the head.
There’s a magnet in the tailcap. This magnet is a coin shape, and fills a designated cavity – if you wish to remove this magnet you may (easily, just remove the spring). Skilhunt even kindly provides a rubber replacement in case you don’t want the magnet.
The threads are square cut, adequately lubed, and not very long. Three and a quarter turns remove it.
There’s also a cell direction sticker inside the cell tube. The cell goes in the usual orientation – positive toward the head.
Both ends have a spring, too.
The head has some grooves for cooling.
Size and Comps
Length 104.5mm / 4.11 inch
Head diameter 23.5mm / 0.93inch
Body diameter 22.0mm / 0.86 inch
Weight: 44 g / 1.55 oz (without battery)
Here’s the M200 beside the M150, which I reviewed a while back.
Retention and Carry
The M200 has a deep-ish carry friction fit clip. The clip is reversible and only fits on the spot seen below. Reversing the clip would be a bit silly, since almost half of the tail of the light would stick out of a pocket this way.
The clip is good and snug.
Also included is a lanyard, which connects through this hole in the tailcap.
There’s also a magnet in the tailcap, and this will hold the light somewhat securely if attached to a full metal base. (But it’s not strong enough to, for example, hold the light horizontally on just a screw, as is possible with some other lights.)
The light could reasonably be used as a hatlight, especially if the bill is thinner.
Power and Runtime
The M200 is powered by a single 18650 cell. I tested the light with a Vapcell M34 – a 3400mAh 10A cell. But I also threw in a longer protected button top and it still fit and worked. The light can also be powered by two cells, and since the manual actually states a “Rated Range: 2.7V ~ 8.4V,” even 2 18350 cells should be acceptable in the light. I tested with two random 18350 cells and not only did they fit and work fine, they also seem to push out more output (around 891 lumens at 30s). Do not attempt to recharge two cells at one time in this light, though.
As stated above, the cell(s) go into the light in the normal orientation – positive toward head.) A flat top unprotected cell does not stick out at all (but longer cells do).
Here are a set of runtimes. The higher of the two Turbos is T1, and it’s first. The output doesn’t hit the specification, but it’s possible that the spec is written for the Cree XP-L version, and it’s also unclear if the spec might be written for the higher output two-up cell option. As noted above, two-up cells do provide more output (at the sacrifice of runtimes).
After the stepdown (claimed is 2 minutes, and that seems right on accurate), the light is very stable at an again lower than claimed 440ish lumens (claimed is 535). Output is very well regulated for a couple of hours, until the output tracks downward with cell voltage, finally shutting off around 2.9V.
The switch helps to warn the user that the cell voltage is low, too, as follows:
Constant blue: >80%
Blue flashing: 80%-50%
Constant red: 50%-20%
Red flashing: <20%
Note that this only happens around 3 seconds after the light is turned on, and only indicates for around 5 seconds. (I can not say specifically what indication does during runtimes, either – the manual doesn’t even include the information above, about percentages.)
T2 is the same as T1 except without the higher initial output of T1. It’s around 450 lumens for over 2 hours, then tracks downard, and finally shuts off.
These are very good output tests, despite being “lower than claimed”. This is good and well regulated output for an LH351D.
The M200 also has built-in charging, by way of a magnetic connector in the head. The port is directly opposite the switch, but it’s unlikely to get confused with the switch (despite both being round, they have a different profile).
A charge cable is included – USB to proprietary magnetic.
The connection is fairly snappy. The charger also has a little indicator as well – while charging, the indicator is red. When complete, it’s blue.
This charger, the MC-10, is the same charger as is used with the H04 RC. These lights are actually incredibly similar, with the main differences being (obviously) one’s a headlamp and one’s a forward light, but also the beam profile – the H04 is much more diffuse (at least in my copy). Stay tuned for the H04 RC, right here!
Charging looks pretty good, but could definitely be a bit faster. A full charge of this 3400mAh cell takes well over 4 hours.
Modes and Currents
|Mode||Mode Claimed Output (lm) (18650)||Claimed Runtime (18650)||Measured Lumens (18650)||Tailcap Amps (4.2V/6.0V)|
Pulse Width Modulation
No PWM on any of these modes.
For reference, here’s a baseline shot, with all the room lights off and almost nothing hitting the sensor. And here’s the worst PWM light I have ever owned. Also one of the very first lights I ordered directly from China!
User Interface and Operation
The M200 is operated by a single switch. It’s an indicating e-switch on the head. It’s not metal, but it’s hard and is very pleasant to operate. It requires minimal force, and has a positive, quiet actuation. (And I just looked back at the M150, which is nearly the same but smaller, and without copy and pasting that text, I said exactly the same thing about that switch, too.) It’s a good switch.
The UI is a lot like previous generation Skilhunts, but it adds that clicks go up to the top then back down through the modes (instead of the next click from Turbo being Low). I sort of get this change, but it’s not one that does it for me.
There are two mode groups. Mode A and Mode B. To switch between these Modes, hold the switch from off, for 5s. The light will flash a few times to indicate the change. Mode A is the more traditional Skilhunt option, and the one I’ve used here for the review. It has more output levels.
Mode A Table:
|Off||Hold 5s||Group switch (Indicated by 3 flashes on main emitter)^|
|Off||Hold 1.5s||Lockout (allows momentary L2)|
|Lockout||Hold 1.5s||Unlock to low mode|
|Lockout||Click||Turn switch indicator on/off (Switch indicator = red blink by switch)|
|Off||Hold 0.5s||Low (L1 or L2, whichever was last selected)|
|Off||Click||On, Mode Memory (after ~3s, switch indicates battery level for 5s*)|
|Off||Double Click||Turbo (T1 or T2, whichever was last selected)|
|Any||Triple Click||Strobe (memorized strobe). Strobe options: Fast strobe (S1) > Beacon (S2) > Slow strobe (S3)|
|On||Click||Mode advance (LMHT cycle, of your memorized modes from each level)|
|On||Double Click||Advance between sub levels (ie T1 goes to T2 and back, M1 goes to M2 and back) – Memorized to the selected Submode. (Including Strobe**)|
|Strobe||Click||Main mode (memory)|
Mode B Table:
|Off||Hold 5s||Group switch (Indicated by 3 flashes on main emitter)^|
|Off||Hold 1.5s||Lockout (Momentary memorized L1 or L2 is possible)|
|Lockout||Hold 1.5s||Unlock to low mode|
|Lockout||Click||Turn switch indicator on/off|
|Off||Hold 0.5s||Lowest programmed option (Can be L1/L2 but might also be M1 or whatever).|
|Off||Click||On, Mode Memory (Switch indicates battery level for 5s*)|
|Off||Double Click||Turbo (T1 (always T1))|
|Off||Triple Click||Memorized strobe mode SOS.^^ Strobe options: Fast strobe (S1) > Beacon (S2) > Slow strobe (S3)|
|Strobe||Double Click||Strobe advance (and memorize)|
|On||Hold||Mode advance (LMHT cycle, depending on what modes you’ve selected – you can actually add all the subgroups from T2 all the way down to L2 for 8 modes total in the main rotation!). On the flip side of that, it’s possible to remove all modes down to two modes (with T1 always accessible via double click). It seems that any two (non T1) modes can be selected!|
|On||Triple Click||Enter programming mode. Main emitter will ramp output from lowest (L2) to T2. The indicating switch will be red if the output is active in the mode cycle, or not lit if the output level is inactive in the mode cycle. When the light cycles past a mode you want to iterate (in or out of the main cycle), click the switch.|
|Programming Mode||Click||Turn output (L2 through T2) on (red switch) or off (switch not lit)|
|Programming Mode||Hold 1.5s||Exit programming mode|
|Programming Mode||Triple Click||Restore to defaults (confirmed by light turning off)|
|Strobe Group||Hold 1s||Iterate output level for active strobe mode (L M or H). This “Hold” isn’t persistent – hold again (separate “hold” action) to change output level again. Each strobe can have a different output level.|
^ The manual says the indicator for switching between the two groups is three fast then three slow by main emitter (entering Mode B) or three slow then three fast (entering Mode A) but I find that it’s actually just three flashes (period.) Three low flashes = entering Mode B. Three higher flashes = entering Mode A.
* Battery indicator: Constant Blue: 80-100% power. Flashing Blue: 50-80% power. Constant Red: 20-50% power. Flashing Red: <20% power. If cell is below 3.0V, the indicator switch flashes 3x every 2 seconds.
** Strobe subgroups: S1=Fast strobe, S2=Beacon, S3=SOS.
^^ Triple click from on in Mode B is tricky because this enters programming mode! I programmed Low out of the sequence once by accident doing this.
Mode A and Mode B are both useful and very similar except a few important, polarizing things. A requires a hold for off. B requires only a click for off (but requires hold for mode advance).
Mode B with all the programming looks absolutely confusing but it’s pretty straightforward once you get the hang of it. I’ll probably stick with Mode A just because I like for some of the choices to be made for me, and I don’t mind hold for off. If you’re a “click for off” then you can still set the light up just like Mode A but you’ll have the click for off…. Both groups are very good, and it’s nice to see this level of consideration going into a UI!
I’m a little surprised that Skilhunt hasn’t just “moved on” to offering a ramping UI, but I’m also pleased that they haven’t. I’d rather have specific outputs like this, and this is a good implementation.
LED and Beam
The emitter here is a Samsung LH351d in 5000K and 90 CRI. It’s a great choice, and I love the beam from it. The emitter sits at the base of a smooth reflector, which provides a beam that’s mostly spot with little flood.
These beamshots are always with the following settings: f8, ISO100, 0.3s shutter, and manual 5000K exposure.
Tint vs BLF-348 (KillzoneFlashlights.com 219b version) (affiliate link)
Test light is on the left!
I compare everything to the KillzoneFlashlights.com 219b BLF-348, because it’s inexpensive and has the best tint!
What I like
- Great thought into the UI
- Broad array of cell support (all the way up to 8.4V, allowing 2×18350 (unofficially))
- Use of 90CRI 5000K emitter, the Samsung LH351D
- Good indicating switch
- Removable magnet
- Despite charging being proprietary magnetic, any (single) cell that fits can be charged
What I don’t like
- Proprietary magnetic charging
- If I’m just being picky, I’d rather have had a warmer emitter
- Output doesn’t meet the spec sheet (but again I thind the specs were written for the Cree version)
- This light was provided by KillzoneFlashlights.com for review. I was not paid to write this review.
- This content originally appeared at zeroair.org. Please visit there for the best experience!
- For flashlight related patches, stickers, and gear, head over to PhotonPhreaks, another site where I write!
- Use my amazon.com referral link if you’re willing to help support making more reviews like this one!