Hanko Machine Works Total Tesseract Trident in Brass Flashlight
Here’s a tiny (read: major) update to my Hanko Machine Works (HWM) Trident flashlight review.
Bit of Backstory
What Happened?
Here’s why I was wrong. I (sometimes) forget that the h17f driver has a double tap option. I just tend to forget that. This is one of the downsides of these types of lights (Hanko Trident, Mechforce Mechtorch, Deadwood Custom Works Huckleberry, and…. there are others) – they generally do not have a manual! The Hanko definitely does not.
Double tapping the switch on these h17f lights activates the full FET Turbo mode, aka #24 mode.
I first tested the light only cycling through the modes. Runtimes, output test, throw measurement – all on the highest of the default of the 4 modes. The default 4 modes aren’t stated, but they are definitely not the FET output Turbo. Since they’re around 3A, it’s likely mode #22 from the chart… Nevertheless, once I realized I hadn’t tested on FET Turbo, I had some updating to do. This is that update.
Why Update This Way?
Just updating the review with a new table, new runtime(s), new beamshots, new UI coverage… doesn’t seem sufficient. It’s a massive, major difference. I initially reported that the maximum output on this $800 light is around 500 lumens. In reality, it’s more like 1200 lumens (at 30s!) So this whole post is me taking a bow of apology, and correcting the data. Also, I like to have correct information displayed. And my experience with this driver (that is, forgetting double-tap) could be valuable to others!
Rule #2
Always Double Tap.
The Updated Data
Here’s the full review, which has been completely updated.
What I updated includes:
- New throw calculation (now 147m)
- A runtime for the FET Turbo mode.
- New overall output change. (now 1199 lumens)
- New beamshots (added Turbo)
- New comparison shots to 219b (added Turbo)
And here are those bits of data updated:
The Big Table
Hanko Machine Works Total Tesseract Trident (Brass) H17f | |
---|---|
Emitter: | Nichia 219c (High CRI) |
Price in USD at publication time: | $800.00 |
Cell: | 1×18350 |
Turbo Runtime | High Runtime |
LVP? | Yes |
Switch Type: | Mechanical |
On-Board Charging? | No |
Claimed Lumens (lm) | – |
Measured Lumens (at 30s) | 1199^ |
Candela per Lumen | 3.7 |
Claimed Throw (m) | – |
Candela (Calculated) in cd (at 30s) | 379lux @ 3.765m = 5372cd^ |
Throw (Calculated) (m) | 146.6 |
All my Hanko reviews! |
^ Measurement disclaimer: I am an amateur flashlight reviewer. I don’t have $10,000 or even $1,000 worth of testing equipment. I test output and such in PVC tubes!! Please consider claims within 10% of what I measure to be perfectly reasonable (accurate, even).
Power and Runtime
When testing with my bench power, I did see the light shut off at around 2.8V, which is good LVP.
Modes and Currents
Mode | Mode Claimed Output (lm) | Claimed Runtime | Measured Lumens | Tailcap Amps |
---|---|---|---|---|
Turbo | – | – | 1199 | 8.20 |
High | – | – | 501 | 3.02 |
Medium | – | – | 188 | 0.82 |
Low | – | – | 35 | 0.13 |
Lowest | – | – | ~ | 0.01 |
Pulse Width Modulation
The H17f driver uses PWM, that’s no secret. I do not notice it by eye, however. Turbo (far right) is FET output and doesn’t use PWM.
LED and Beam
These beamshots are always with the following settings: f8, ISO100, 0.3s shutter, and manual 5000K exposure.
Tint vs BLF-348 (KillzoneFlashlights.com 219b version) (affiliate link)
I compare everything to the Killzone 219b BLF-348 because it’s inexpensive and has the best tint!
For reference, here’s a baseline shot, with all the room lights off and almost nothing hitting the sensor. Also, here’s the light with the worst PWM I could find. I’m adding multiple timescales, so it’ll be easier to compare to the test light. Unfortunately, the PWM on this light is so bad that it doesn’t even work with my normal scale, with is 50 microseconds (50us). 10ms. 5ms. 2ms. 1ms. 0.5ms. 0.2ms. In a display faster than 0.2ms or so, the on/off cycle is more than one screen, so it’d just (very incorrectly) look like a flat line. I wrote more about this Ultrafire WF-602C flashlight and explained a little about PWM too.
One more Update
As a penance, I also reworked my h17f flow chart. I added some things that users have requested, and I think, corrected a few things. Unfortunately, the fidelity isn’t that great, and I’ll probably remake it again in PowerPoint.
In Summary
In summary, sorry for messing up that review! Hope you’ll find the new data acceptable, agreeable, and appropriate!
I’ll add a plug here for something else that’s interesting. My Deadwood Huckleberry is a single emitter 219b light. If I double tapped to turbo on that and put 8A through that 219b, it’d last for only seconds. Many single emitters can not handle that level of current! So be deliberate with your use of this mode. I’d say all triples are probably ok (even 219b 18350 triples should be ok, since that current is divided across the three, and they can probably handle it.)
The Icarus driver by Prometheus Lights handles this in an interesting way. It’s essentially an h17f driver but with modes #23 and #24 disabled (or removed, or cut off, I am not sure how they do it.) But Icarus is perfect for single emitter lights like the DWC Huckleberry!
Notes
- This light was provided by me for review. I was not paid to write this review. I was not told to update this review. I have received no communication from any maker or owner regarding correcting this review.
- This content originally appeared at zeroair.org. Please visit there for the best experience!
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That was a classy way to correct an error. Also, thanks for the double tap info! I put an H17Fx into my FocusWorks Echo, and didn’t know about that feature.
If your Echo is a single, still be careful with the double tap!
curious about why you only get 550 lumens out of three amps, considering the emitter should give about 800 lumen at 3 amps. Is it due to driver inefficiency?
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