Wurkkos FC11 2700K Flashlight Review
The Wurkkos FC11 2700K 18650 Flashlight is somewhat well covered by reviews lately, but I was intrigued enough by this light to convince Wurkkos to send one for review. I was particularly interested in the 2700K version, and that’s what they sent. Read on for some thoughts and testing!
Official Specs and Features
Here’s a link to the Amazon product page.
Versions
I believe there’s only one body for the FC11. But I know of at least two emitter temperature options: 2700K and 4000K. I think there may also be a 5000K, but I’m less certain on that.
Price
Looks like the current price is $29.97 on amazon. (referral link here).
Short Review of the Wurkkos FC11 2700K 18650 Flashlight
This light is definitely worth $30, and I recommend you buy one!
Wurkkos FC11 2700K 18650 Flashlight Long Review
The Big Table
Wurkkos FC11 2700K 18650 Flashlight | |
---|---|
Emitter: | Samsung LH351d (2700K, 90CRI) |
Price in USD at publication time: | $29.97 at Amazon (referral link) |
Cell: | 1×18650 (included) |
Turbo Runtime Graph | High Runtime Graph |
LVP? | Switch warning |
Switch Type: | E-Switch |
Quiescent Current (mA): | 1.46 |
On-Board Charging? | Yes |
Charge Port Type: | USB-C |
Charge Graph | |
Power off Charge Port | with cell: one mode without cell: one mode |
Claimed Lumens (lm) | 1300 |
Measured Lumens (at 30s) | 766 (58.9% of claim)^ |
Candela per Lumen | 7.8 |
Claimed Throw (m) | 144 |
Candela (Calculated) in cd (at 30s) | 173lux @ 5.248m = 4765cd |
Throw (Calculated) (m) | 138.1 (95.9% of claim)^ |
All my Wurkkos reviews! |
^ Measurement disclaimer: Testing flashlights is my hobby. I use hobbyist-level equipment for testing, including some I made myself. Try not to get buried in the details of manufacturer specifications versus measurements recorded here; A certain amount of difference (say, 10 or 15%) is perfectly reasonable.
What’s Included
- Wurkkos FC11 2700K 18650 Flashlight
- Wurkkos 3000mAh 18650
- Charge cable (USB to USB-C)
- Lanyard
- Spare o-rings (2)
- Manual etc
Package and Manual
Build Quality and Disassembly
I would describe the build quality of this inexpensive light as “good” or even “very good.”
It’s maybe twice the price of something like a Convoy S2+, and the build quality is definitely much better.
The standout for me is that this one is available as 2700K 90CRI, which is great.
The body doesn’t have knurling but does have rings for grip. They don’t do a whole lot to aid in holding, though.
The tailcap has an appropriate grip, however, which aids in removal.
On the head are shallow cooling fins.
A press-in charge port cover keeps the USB-C charge port safe from debris and water.
Threads on the FC11 are square-cut, moderately long, and lightly (if at all) lubed.
While the pocket clip can install in only one end, the cell tube is actually reversible – threading is the same on both ends.
A magnet is in the tailcap, and this magnet is adequate strength for holding even in a horizontal position.
Both head and tail have big beefy springs, and if you notice carefully on the head end, there’s a “+” for cell direction.
Size and Comps
Officially the size is:
116.23mm x 27mm, and 65g (without cell).
If the flashlight will headstand, I’ll show it here (usually the third photo). If the flashlight will tailstand, I’ll show that here, too (usually the fourth photo).
Here’s the test light with the venerable Convoy S2+. Mine’s a custom “baked” edition Nichia 219b triple. A very nice 18650 light.
And here’s the light beside my custom engraved TorchLAB BOSS 35, an 18350 light. I reviewed the aluminum version of that light in both 35 and 70 formats.
This image below is just all in fun – the cell tube is completely gone here. But wouldn’t this be a fun little light! (Shorter than an 18350 version, though.)
Retention and Carry
Mainly the FC11 will be carried using the included friction fit pocket clip, which installs on the tail end. This means bezel down carry is the default.
It’s a friction fit clip, like I said, so…. clip hug!
But the cell tube is reversible, so if you wish to have bezel up carry, then just flip the cell tube. The balance will be a little off, but it works. The location of the clip on the body with “bezel up” carry would make this a reasonable hatlight solution.
Another option for retaining the FC11 is the included lanyard, which attaches through this hole in the tailcap. There are also places on the pocket clip to attach the lanyard, but as it’s a friction fit clip, I’d recommend sticking with the hole in the tailcap.
Finally, we have the tailcap magnet, which holds the FC11 quite securely on the right base.
Power and Runtime
The voltage range for the FC11 is 2.7V-4.2V, so that means it runs on a single lithium-ion cell. Included with the purchase of the Wurkkos FC11 is a 3000mAh 18650.
This cell is a button top and appears standard in every way.
Since the FC11 has springs on the head and tail, there’s nothing preventing usage of any type 18650. Flat top, button top, protected, unprotected – they all should work fine.
Cell installation is normal – positive end toward the head. You can remove the tailcap or the head to install the cell.
Provided below are a few runtimes. The claim of 1300 lumens is almost certainly for the 4000K version. It doesn’t seem that Wurkkos provided specs for this very warm and higher CRI edition. Both of those factors will mean that we can expect the output to be less, and that’s what we see in fact. I have a bigger issue with not speccing the 2700K option, than for “being wrong” or “misleading” necessarily.
Both Turbo and High have a big stepdown after a minute or two, and then the output just trails off. At around 2.9V or so, the switch begins to warn of low voltage.
When the light is turned on, the indicating switch will light momentarily to advise of cell voltage, as follows:
Green: Power >30%
Red: Power <30%
Red Flashing: Recharge cell as soon as possible
Charging
A USB-C port is used for charging, and it’s on the head and opposite the switch.
A press-in cover protects the port. The cover is really quite nice.
Wurkkos provides a USB to USB-C cable, too.
Charging looks pretty good if a little slow at around 1A. The time required is over 4 hours, and termination voltage is a little low at around 4.15V.
Modes and Currents
Mode | Mode Claimed Output (lm) | Claimed Runtime | Measured Lumens | Tailcap Amps |
---|---|---|---|---|
Turbo | 1300 | 1h20m | 766 | 4.36 |
High | 700 | 2h45m | 452 | 1.72 |
Mid | 300 | 9h | 177 | 0.62 |
Low | 50 | 45h | 35 | 0.15 |
Eco | 2 | 275h | ~ | 0.01 |
Pulse Width Modulation
All the lower modes and I think even Turbo utilizes pulse width modulation. It’s fast, and I don’t notice it, though.
Here you can see a “baseline” – a chart with almost no light hitting the sensor.
Then there’s the Ultrafire WF-602C flashlight, which has some of the worst PWM I’ve seen. It’s so bad that I used a post about it to explain PWM! Here are multiple timescales (10ms, 5ms, 2ms, 1ms, 0.5ms, 0.2ms) to make comparing this “worst” PWM light to the test light easier. That post also explains why I didn’t test the WF-602C at the usual 50us scale.
User Interface and Operation
A single switch is used to control the FC11. It’s an e-switch in the head of the light, and has indicating emitters under the translucent black cover.
Texture is one way to differentiate the switch from the charge port cover, but also the charge port cover has more of a rounded (off the body) feel, while the switch feels flatter.
Below, the switch is indicating green.
There are two mode groups on the FC11. The default is stepped, which has five output levels, and no ramping. The second utilizes ramping.
Here’s a UI table for Group 1!
State | Action | Result |
---|---|---|
Off | Hold | Eco |
Off | Click | On (Mode Memory) |
Off | Double Click | Turbo |
On | Click | Off (Except in Turbo) |
On | Hold | Mode Cycle (Eco>Low>Mid>High) |
Turbo | Click | Previous Mode |
Off | Hold 3s | Switch to Group 2 |
Off | Click 4x | Lockout – main emitter will still respond by blinking quickly twice on click |
Lockout | Click 4x | Unlock to previous mode. |
Any | Click 3x | Strobe |
Strobe | Click | Return to previous mode. |
Here’s a UI table for Group 2!
State | Action | Result |
---|---|---|
Off | Hold | Eco |
Off | Click | On (Mode Memory) |
Off | Double Click | Turbo |
On | Click | Off (Except in Turbo) |
On | Hold | Ramp to highest output^ |
Turbo | Click | Previous Mode |
Off | Hold 3s | Switch to Group 1 |
Off | Click 4x | Lockout – main emitter will still respond by blinking quickly twice on click |
Lockout | Click 4x | Unlock to previous mode. |
Any | Click 3x | Strobe |
Strobe | Click | Return to previous mode. |
^ Ramp can sort of do multiple things, depending. The first ramp after the light is turned on will always be upward (unless you start in Turbo by double-clicking from off.) And ramp will most often be “up” unless you hold the switch again within around 2 seconds of ramping up, and then the ramp will be down.
LED and Beam
Wurkkos uses a Samsung LH351d in the FC11. In this case it’s a 2700K emitter, which means it’s warm white (WW), or “very warm.”
I consider “very warm” lights to be fantastic for around the house at night lights. Lights that won’t be abrasive, and potentially disturb sleepers with their coolness. The 2700K of this light is perfect in that regard. Also the high CRI (or “higher” CRI at 90) is great for this purpose, too.
These beamshots always have the following settings: f8, ISO100, 0.3s shutter, and manual 5000K exposure. These photos are taken at floor level, and the beam hits the ceiling around 9 feet away.
Tint vs BLF-348 (KillzoneFlashlights.com 219b version) (affiliate link)
I keep the test flashlight on the left and the BLF-348 reference flashlight on the right.
I compare everything to the KillzoneFlashlights.com 219b BLF-348 because it’s inexpensive and has the best tint!
Conclusion
What I like
- 2700K is just great.
- Also a high CRI emitter
- Complete package for under $30 is a deal
- Ramping UI option for those who like that
- USB-C charging is forward-thinking
What I don’t like
- The pocket clip is not fantastic
- Charging is a little slow
Notes
- This light was provided by Wurkkos for review. I was not paid to write this review.
- This content originally appeared at zeroair.org. Please visit there for the best experience!
- For flashlight-related patches, stickers, and gear, head over to PhotonPhreaks.com!
- Please use my amazon.com referral link to help support zeroair.org!
Interesting. It heats up more than Convoy S2+ SST20 2700K. I thought the LH351d emitter is more efficient than SST20
I recently opted for this same tint. It’s a great light for outside and at night. Been loving it so far! I’m tempted to pick up another but the clip is a real downfall for me.
I hear ya! I love the 2700K. Super great for wandering around the house at night. Clip hasn’t really bothered me but then, for my uses of this light, I don’t really clip.
A quiescent current of 1.5 mA is way too high to be acceptable. This will drain the included battery in less than three months and makes the light unsuitable for muggles. Every other time when they pick it up it will be dead.
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Great review, yours are helping me decide between this (but at 4000K), the TS21 and the Sofirn SC31 Pro.
Maybe you’ll be able to help me a bit: there’s reviews that say the TS21 makes a high pitch noise, is this true in your experience? Also between those three in which order you’d put them regarding better flooding?
Thanks!
It could make a high-pitched noise, but I don’t recall hearing it.
Between all those three you mentioned, I still have the FC11 out and use it often. I use it with the 18350 cell tube, though.
Thanks for your help, I’ve just received mine and I’ve noticed something of a bad design that isn’t mentioned anywhere, I’ll try to explain it clearly:
Memory mode supposedly leaves the lamp in your previous manually set intensity (steeped or ramped).
-Put it in whatever intensity but ECO, power off.
-OFF>>CLICK will correctly start in that whatever intensity. Power off.
-OFF>>HOLD will start in ECO. Power off.
-OFF>>CLICK should start in your set intensity, but it doesn’t, it will start in ECO! And not until you enter another mode (turbo, strobe) memory will properly recover (this tells us the memory correctly saves the state, but normally turning on after using hold to ECO botches it).
This effectively renders OFF>>HOLD useless. Alternatively, this effectively renders the memory state useless.
I think it would be better for the lamp to always OFF>>CLICK in your previous intensity, and leave ECO in OFF>>HOLD (or manually set, of course). That was the main reason I decided for this lamp, I assumed it had two startup modes, one you set, one in ECO.
Maybe I got a defective one?
Could you confirm please? Maybe, you being a lamp fan could explain better the rationale behind this.
That’s not how mine works.
From off, long gold gets floor/ lowest mode set in either ramp or stepped config.
From off, on click gets last level.
Make sure your not clicking too fast or else you’ll get… Something else. Anduril can be tricky at times. If all you want in a light is a long press to super low, and normal press to memory, there are other lights for you.
Thanks for your answer, Brian, but I don’t think I was clear, proven by the fact that you think this lamp has Anduril. I asked the same in the Reddit flashlight sub and all agreed it worked precisely as I described.
You are correct, I thought you were referring to a different light. Sorry!
I just ordered an fc11 in 2700k, Amazon has a sale on them. The very warm, soft light will be great for simulating sunrise and early morning light, though I may still be after a good 3500k light if you know of any with high cri. The steep drop down in brightness doesn’t bother me here like it normally would as for my uses I’d hardly use this light at higher lumens anyways. Excited to see it in action!
I’m very happy with the FC11! I like the simpler UI, and my copy reads 2900-3000k and 94 cri which is a beautiful soft tone. Really does wonders for that “romantic” look in photos. Big thumbs up!
Yes, I love my FC11 too! I keep with the 18350 body and use it very often!
Mine will not recharge. Green light just stays on .
Checked everything.
Great Test.
One remark regarding your runtimes and the following Modes and Currents: Wurkkos used a 3500mAh battery for their ANSI/NEMA FL1 Chart (see manual “Notes”) instead the delivered 3000 mAh.
It would be interesting which battery they used and what is the outcome in runtimes.