Nitecore TIKI Keychain Flashlight Review
What can I say about the Nitecore TIKI Keychain Flashlight that I haven’t already said about the RovyVon Aurora series? Here’s some testing!
Official Specs and Features
Of the TIKI, there’s just one version. There’s also the TIKI LE, which I’ll cover later. It offers different secondaries.
The TIKI doesn’t seem to be available, but the TIKI LE is available on Amazon for $19.95 (referral link).
The build is fine. The output is fine. I absolutely hate that the design has been lifted from RovyVon in this way, and not improved in a meaningful way. Also noteworthy is that the updated RovyVon fixes many of the issues I’ll mention later…
The Big Table
|Price in USD at publication time:||$19.95 on amazon|
|High Runtime||Medium Runtime|
|Quiescent Current (A):||?|
|Power off Charge Port with no Cell?|
|Claimed Lumens (lm)||300|
|Measured Lumens (at 30s)||282 (94% of claim)^|
|Claimed Throw (m)||71|
|Candela (Calculated) in cd (at 30s)||57lux @ 4.218m = 1014cd|
|Throw (Calculated) (m)||63.7 (89.7% of claim)^|
|All my Nitecore reviews!|
^ Measurement disclaimer: I am an amateur flashlight reviewer. I don’t have $10,000 or even $1,000 worth of testing equipment. I test output and such in PVC tubes!! Please consider claims within 10% of what I measure to be perfectly reasonable (accurate, even).
- Nitecore TIKI Keychain Flashlight
- Keychain connector
Package and Manual
I think this is one of those “frustration-free” packages, but I was extremely frustrated with it. That line you see on the bottom right – the scissor mark – doesn’t actually denote where you’ll need to cut. And when you do cut high enough, you’ll be cutting the serial number off the package.
Here’s the manual.
Build Quality and Disassembly
Build quality is good.
The bezel on the TIKI is metal – stainless I’d guess.
The body is clear on the TIKI – and there’s a bit of molded branding on the back.
Size and Comps
Head Diameter: 14.7mm
Weight: TIKI: 12g
TIKI LE: 10.5g
It’s a tiny little thing.
And the comparison you should be most interested in. The TIKI between two RovyVon Auroras. One is even mostly clear, so you can see the guts of both….
Retention and Carry
Interestingly the only way to carry this little light is the included keychain clip. There is no pocket clip, as there is on the RovyVon lights. The clip attaches to the tailcap, making this a very dedicated keychain light. Since there’s no clip, it’s not possible to use the light on a hat.
Power and Runtime
The TIKI is powered by an internal battery – it’s a lipo pouch! Since it’s built-in and the light isn’t really able to be disassembled, the TIKI will essentially be disposable. But it’s rechargeable, and the battery will likely last a good while!
Here’s a runtime on High. The output is stable for over a minute, which is good, and almost hits the output specs.
A runtime on the second-highest mode. Output is fairly stable but also fairly low.
And here’s a runtime on the High CRI NW sidelight. This output is sable for even longer. Not bad.
Since the cell is built-in, of course, there’s built-in charging. This happens by micro-USB. The cover is press-in and feels pretty secure.
Charging is exceptional and well regulated. Also fairly fast, at just over an hour.
When charging is happening, there’s a blue indicating LED. When charging finishes, the light goes off. I like this setup…. No always-on blue light when charging is complete.
Modes and Currents
|Mode||Mode Claimed Output (lm)||Claimed Runtime||Measured Lumens||Tailcap Amps|
Pulse Width Modulation
The PWM on the lower modes is very bad. Maybe you’ll recall that one of my biggest issues with the original RovyVon was the terrible PWM (which they fixed in later versions!). The PWM seen below is extremely noticeable, and essentially a deal-breaker for me in this light.
For reference, here’s a baseline shot, with all the room lights off and almost nothing hitting the sensor. Also, here’s the light with the worst PWM I could find. I’m adding multiple timescales, so it’ll be easier to compare to the test light. Unfortunately, the PWM on this light is so bad that it doesn’t even work with my normal scale, with is 50 microseconds (50us). 10ms. 5ms. 2ms. 1ms. 0.5ms. 0.2ms. In a display faster than 0.2ms or so, the on/off cycle is more than one screen, so it’d just (very incorrectly) look like a flat line. I wrote more about this Ultrafire WF-602C flashlight and explained a little about PWM too.
User Interface and Operation
There’s a single e-switch on this light. It’s on the side, near the head. The switch is clicky, and ok… it can be a little difficult to consistently double or triple-click it, though.
Here’s a UI table!
|On||Click||Mode advance (Ultralow, L, M, H)|
|UV||Click||Mode Advance (Aux White, Aux White Flashing, UV)|
LED and Beam
The listed emitter is an Osram P8.
There’s a TIR in front of that emitter.
Also, secondarily, there’s a high CRI NW emitter, and a UV emitter. These are projected through the plastic body.
Despite UV not penetrating polycarbonate, the UV most certainly exits the body.
These beamshots are always with the following settings: f8, ISO100, 0.3s shutter, and manual 5000K exposure.
Tint vs BLF-348 (KillzoneFlashlights.com 219b version) (affiliate link)
I keep the test flashlight on the left, and the BLF-348 reference flashlight on the right.
I compare everything to the Killzone 219b BLF-348 because it’s inexpensive and has the best tint!
What I like
- Build quality is good
- UV is a fun party trick
- Charging seems very good
What I don’t like
- It’s like the original RovyVon Aurora, and the new Auroras are better.
- Non-replaceable battery
- This light was provided by Nitecore for review. I was not paid to write this review.
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