This review is of the TIKI – there’s a sister light, the TIKI LE, that’s basically the same. I’ll post a review of that one today too. Keeping them separate is easier for me and also cleaner when looking back on articles…. But it does mean you get two posts today!
What can I say about the TIKI that I haven’t already said about the RovyVon Aurora series. We should get this discussion out of the way at the start: version one of the Aurora, which was released maybe a year and a half ago, and this TIKI/TIKI LE are basically the same. I asked Nitecore about this specifically, and they declined to respond. I asked RovyVon about this specifically and they were very clear that this was in no way whatsoever a collaboration in any format.
Official Specs and Features
Of the TIKI, there’s just one version. There’s also the TIKI LE, which I’ll cover later. It offers different secondaries.
Price and Coupon
The TIKI doesn’t seem to be available, but the TIKI LE is available on amazon for $19.95 (referral link).
The build is fine. The output is fine. I absolutely hate that the design has been lifted from RovyVon in this way, and not improved in a meaningful way. Also noteworthy is that the updated RovyVon fixes many of the issues I’ll mention later…
The Big Table
|Price in USD at publication time:||$19.95 on amazon|
|High Runtime||Medium Runtime|
|Quiescent Current (A):||?|
|Power off Charge Port with no Cell?|
|Claimed Lumens (lm)||300|
|Measured Lumens (at 30s)||282 (94% of claim)*|
|Claimed Throw (m)||71|
|Candela (Calculated) in cd (at 30s)||57lux @ 4.218m = 1014cd|
|Throw (Calculated) (m)||63.7 (89.7% of claim)*|
|All my Nitecore reviews!|
- Measurement disclaimer: I am an amateur flashlight reviewer. I don’t have $10,000 or even $1,000 worth of testing equipment. I test output and such in PVC tubes!! Please consider claims within 10% of what I measure to be perfectly reasonable (accurate, even).
- Nitecore TIKI Keychain Flashlight
- Keychain connector
Package and Manual
I think this is one of those “frustration free” packages, but I was extremely frustrated with it. That line you see on the bottom right – the scissor mark – doesn’t actually denote where you’ll need to cut. And when you do cut high enough, you’ll be cutting the serial number off the package.
Here’s the manual.
Build Quality and Disassembly
Build quality is good.
The bezel on the TIKI is metal – stainless I’d guess.
The body is clear on the TIKI – and there’s a bit of molded branding on the back.
Size and Comps
Head Diameter: 14.7mm
Weight: TIKI: 12g
TIKI LE: 10.5g
It’s a tiny little thing.
And the comparison you should be most interested in. The TIKI between two RovyVon Auroras. One is even mostly clear, so you can see the guts of both….
Retention and Carry
Interestingly the only way to carry this little light is the included keychain clip. There is no pocket clip, as there is on the RovyVon lights. The clip attaches on the tailcap, making this a very dedicated keychain light. Since there’s no clip, it’s not possible to use the light on a hat.
Power and Runtime
The TIKI is powered by an internal battery – it’s a lipo pouch! Since it’s built in and the light isn’t really able to be disassembled, the TIKI will essentially be disposable. But it’s rechargeable, and the battery will likely last a good while!
Here’s a runtime on High. The output is stable for over a minute, which is good, and almost hits the output specs.
A runtime on the second highest mode. Output is fairly stable but also fairly low.
And here’s a runtime on the High CRI NW side light. This output is sable for even longer. Not bad.
Since the cell is built in, of course there’s built-in charging. This happens by micro-USB. The cover is press-in, and feels pretty secure.
Charging is exceptional, and well regulated. Also fairly fast, at just over an hour.
When charging is happening, there’s a blue indicating LED. When charging finishes, the light goes off. I like this setup…. No always-on blue light when charging is complete.
Modes and Currents
|Mode||Mode Claimed Output (lm)||Claimed Runtime||Measured Lumens||Tailcap Amps|
Pulse Width Modulation
The PWM on the lower modes is very bad. Maybe you’ll recall that one of my biggest issues with the original RovyVon was the terrible PWM (which they fixed in later versions!). The PWM seen below is extremely noticeable, and essentially a deal breaker for me on this light.
For reference, here’s a baseline shot, with all the room lights off and almost nothing hitting the sensor. And here’s the worst PWM light I have ever owned. Also one of the very first lights I ordered directly from China!
User Interface and Operation
There’s a single e-switch on this light. It’s on the side, near the head. The switch is clicky, and ok… it can be a little difficult to consistently double or triple click it, though.
Here’s a UI table!
|On||Click||Mode advance (Ultralow, L, M, H)|
|UV||Click||Mode Advance (Aux White, Aux White Flashing, UV)|
LED and Beam
The listed emitter is an Osram P8.
There’s a TIR in front of that emitter.
Also, secondarily, there’s a high CRI NW emitter, and a UV emitter. These are projected through the plastic body.
Despite UV not penetrating polycarbonate, the UV most certainly exits the body.
These beamshots are always with the following settings: f8, ISO100, 0.3s shutter, and manual 5000K exposure.
Tint vs BLF-348 (Killzone 219b version)
Test light is on the left.
I compare everything to the Killzone 219b BLF-348, because it’s inexpensive and has the best tint!
What I like
- Build quality is good
- UV is a fun party trick
- Charging seems very good
What I don’t like
- It’s like the original RovyVon Aurora, and the new Auroras are better.
- Non-replaceable battery
- This light was provided by Nitecore for review. I was not paid to write this review.
- This content originally appeared at zeroair.org. Please visit there for the best experience!
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