A while back, my hard anodized TorchLAB BOSS was updated from the original (as shipped) Lux-RC 371d driver, to the new firmware 371 v2.0 driver.  The light itself has been reviewed already, so this review is going to focus mostly on the new firmware.

My goal is for this to be a good guide that you can reference when you’re learning to use your new BOSS, or deciding if you want to pay for the upgrade on your BOSS.  I also want to cover enough of the features in a coherent enough way that I can go back here and remember how to do whatever I want to do!


Official Specs and Features

Here’s a link to the official product page.

Price

The price for this update hasn’t been set yet.  The price for this flashlight… well they aren’t really available routinely!


TorchLAB BOSS 371 v2.0 Firmware

Upgrade Process

The driver is the real story of this post.  I’ve covered most of the other aspects in the previous review.  Let’s cover a few facts about the physical hardware first.

The driver in all BOSS lights is made by Lux-RC.  There are a number of revisions of both hardware and firmware.  My BOSS seen here shipped (originally) with the 371d driver.  For the record, the “d” in “371d” has been said to refer to the driver being “dumb.”  I refute that (optical programming seems pretty smart) but…. the new one is certainly smarter!

If you’re considering upgrading your firmware, the answer first of all is “Yes you can.”  The hardware your light has will not change.  This is important in that if you have a motion sensor, you’ll get motion sensor features.  If you don’t have the motion sensor, you will (still) not have motion sensor features.

The upgrade consists of sending your light to Oveready, and Oveready sending the light back to you later after the process is done.  The light is not changed physically during this process.

Just for some fun bit of information, here’s the list of Lux-RC part names, and the Oveready counterpart.  Some of those are in more than just BOSS lights – for example, there are 4.0 and 5.0 P60 drop-ins, as well as e-series 5.0 heads (which look just like BOSS heads.)

Lux-RC Name Oveready Name
xx 1.0 driver
xx 2.0 driver
332 3.0
333 3.1
334 4.0
371d 5.0
371 v2.0 5.1

Serial Number

Somewhere along the way (during 2019 actually), Lux-RC implemented a motion sensor on the mcpcb.  My version does not have the motion sensor.  One way to check if your Reverse Taper (RT) BOSS has the motion sensor is to check your serial number, which will give you many details on your light.

Here are some of the details of my BOSS shown in this review.

torchlab boss serial page

How do you even check your serial?  If you’re considering this upgrade, you probably already know you have RT BOSS.  Your pin is 222 (or 112 if you or someone before you changed it).  Pins are the tap/click process you’ll need to do with the light in your hands.  The tap/click process is like this:

tap twice [pause around 1 second]
tap twice [pause around 1 second]
tap twice [pause around 1 second]
Click

This can be hard to get, but just remember, you have to pause, and if it’s “not working” then pause longer.  My original video should help you:

This technically enters programming mode, but if you leave the light in programming mode for a bit, the secondary emitter will begin blinking (instead of being steady).  It’ll blink like this:

Blink blink pause
Blink pause
Blink blink blink blink blink blink blink blink blink blink pause
Blink blink blink blink blink pause
Longer pause, restart blinking serial.

It does this until the 5 or 6 digit serial is blinked out.  Zeros are represented by ten binks!!  In the example above, that serial is 2105 (which isn’t a real serial, just an example).

To ascertain if your 371d has the motion sensor input your serial number here at Lux-RC, and look at the “LE Carry Sens:” section.  Mine says “NA.”  If yours says anything else there, then you have the motion sensor.

It’s possible to upgrade your firmware regardless of whether or not you have the motion sensor.  Like I said, I don’t have the motion sensor on this BOSS, yet I still got the upgrade.  So this text will cover only the firmware options that don’t include using the motion sensor.  (Motion sensor, and, well, all of 372 will covered in a different post!)  The serial number actually covers the firmware upgrade, too:  “LE Service: UPGRADE SERVICE 2020 Q3”.  What follows on that same page is a log of changes.

Just a quick intro summary here:  Yes, you can upgrade any 371d BOSS to the newer firmware.  You should check your serial number to see what features you’ll get with the upgrade.

What do you Get

When you receive your upgraded BOSS, you’ll have a bunch of new features.  Again, not new hardware, just new firmware- the TorchLAB BOSS 371 v2.0 firmware.  I’m going to try to cover many of those new features here.  One important thing you’ll get is a new serial number and also a new way to check your serial number!

The tap/click process for your new serial is like this:

tap [pause very briefly]
tap [pause very briefly]
tap tap [pause very briefly]
Click

The pauses on the new firmware are much briefer than on the original!  Just like on the original, this process is also technically entering programming mode, too!  There are some documented technicals about the tap/click and pause duration, but you can see page 5 of the manual below for those.  That gets a bit technical, and with some practice, it’ll be second nature.

 

If I’d just waited in that video above, the serial would have started blinking.  You can click out of this at any time.

Manual

Let’s let the manual make its statement.

Here’s a pdf link:  LUXRC-371-372-V2-EN  It’s a slim 688KB.  In case you don’t want to mess with a pdf, here are images of the same manual.

That’s right, a nine page manual!  A whole bunch of that is more geared to the 372 driver, which is different hardware than I’m covering here.  Technically 371 v2.0 and 372 v2.0 have “identical firmware” (according to the manual), so practically everything you read in this review will also be useful knowledge for your 372 v2.0 driver.  There is one massive difference, however.  The 372 v2.0 driver has compatibility with a maximum of one cell whereas the 371 v2.0 will work with two cells as well as one.  But BOSS lights aren’t available with 372, so 372 isn’t the scope of this discussion.

That manual is very good!  There are some graphical things that sometimes I want to see written, or described in other ways.  It’s also good sometimes, for someone who didn’t make the product or write the code, to play with in detail.  That’s where this post comes in.  I’m not really saying anything that the manual doesn’t say.  I’m just saying it in sentences not graphics.  Mostly.

Programming

You should know now that there are different ways to program different aspects of the 371 v2.0.  Some parts are still programmed through the web based interface and the optical sensor on the BOSS.  This process is still very much like it has been in the past (with some enhancements you may never need).  Other parts (“switches”) are programmed through a series of pin entries on the flashlight itself.

Pin 112 (can be manually changed to Pin 222): Optical programming

There’s a lot to programming the light optically.  You can plan your modes at the Lux-RC webpage, then through the magic of magic, optically enter that program into your light.  Getting into the programming mode is just like checking the serial – see above for that.  When your secondary emitter comes on very low, you’re ready to program.

The programming itself looks just like in the old video which I’ve linked above.  Build your program on lux-rc.com.  Enter programming mode on your BOSS.  Place BOSS facing the screen and wait one full cycle (green screen to green screen).  And your light is programmed!

Here’s an example of the programming screen with both one cell and two cells in play.

lux-rc 371 v2.0 programming page

And the screen you see once you click the orange “Save and Program” button above:

lux-rc 371 v2.0 program page prompt

And finally, the green screen where you place your BOSS.  When you see this screen, get your BOSS in front.  Don’t wait.  Also don’t place your BOSS on the screen after this has switched to blinking.

lux-rc 371 v2.0 ready to program

And here’s a blink example of some random (but good) programming options.  Flash/Seizure warning….

 

Pin Programming

Pin programming is a little different.  Well, different from optical programming, but also will be familiar to programming other drivers (like the H17f), since it requires a series of button clicks.

First off, here are all the pins, per the manual.

lux-rc 371 v2.0 manual pins list

Pin 4: “Files”

One of the most discussed (and important) features of 371 v2.0 is the “Files.”  I was nearly certain I’d seen this also called “Pages” (and I’m putting it here once just for search purposes) but as the manual refers to it as Files, and so I will too.

The four Files of the 371 v2.0 essentially make your BOSS into four flashlights.  Every single parameter of each File can be configured completely independently from the other Files.  So while the manual boasts “Up to 32 memory modes,” it’s really a max of 8 per file (which the manual is also clear about.)

So we need to know how to switch between files!  The pin is 4.  The tap/click process for switching Files is like this:

tap tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
Click (or technically you can hold the switch in the “momentary on” position).

At this point the secondary emitter will begin blinking.  First it blinks out the count of the File you’re in.  So if you’re in File #2, you’ll see two blinks.  After this the cycle begins – in this case it’d do 3 blinks, then [longer] pause then four blinks, and then back to 1 blink.  The cycle will continue until you select a File.

To change Files, click the switch after the LED blinks the File you want.  So you want File #1, then you click the switch after 1 has blinked fully.

The manual attached above covers Lux-RC lights broadly speaking, but the BOSS itself ships with a different file setup.  I am not sure that’s documented, and I think the idea is that you’ll likely want to (and need to) poke around to get familiar and also build out the Files like you want.  I think generally the modes stated in the manual are right, but specifically they might be something a little different.

Pin 111: Voltage Meter Application

tap [pause very briefly]
tap [pause very briefly]
tap [pause very briefly]

The main emitter will blink out the voltage.  For example the light I’m testing right now has a cell with 4.0 voltage, so the white emitters blink 4x, then pause, then 4x again – repeating.

Pin 113: Battery Meter Application

This is a feature not fully supported by the BOSS but in theory the driver will put a load on the cell, and return a value from 1-5 of cell health.  The load consists of the main emitters stepping up to turbo.

tap [pause very briefly]
tap [pause very briefly]
tap tap tap [pause very briefly]

I’m not sure how it works exactly (electronically), but on the BOSS lights I’ve found it to report inconsistently.  Other users have reported that results can vary dramatically depending on which Files you’re in.  Again, this is a feature not fully vetted by the Oveready team on the BOSS.

Pin 311: Blink Current Switch Configuration

tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
tap [pause very briefly]
tap [pause very briefly]

Relevant when thinking about these “switches” is to think about something like the DIP switches on something like the Oveready P60 drop-in which I reviewed here.

These physical DIP switches have two states.

torchlab dip p60 dropin

The toggles switches for this driver can be thought of in exactly the same way, but entirely electronic.  These switches have just two states.  Here’s an overview.  In the image below the top row is “ON” and the bottom row is “OFF” but more importantly and cleverly in this image – the top row is WHITE and the bottom row is RED.  That fact actually means something!

lux-rc 371 v2.0 pin manual listing

Switch 1: Standby locator beacon
Switch 2: Motion sensing
Switch 3: Motion sense timing
Switch 4: Mode layout
Switch 5: Standby mode for twisty/McClicky
Switch 6: Double click action
Switch 7: Double click action on/off

When entering pin 311, the emitters will blink to indicate “on” or “off.”  On is a single white flash, while Off is a single red flash. “Red” in my case, and “red” is what I’ll say mostly throughout this post – technically of course, it’s not necessarily red, but technically “secondary”.  But to be fair “red” is also how the manual refers to it, and not “secondary”.  But just so we’re clear, any time I say “red” I do technically mean “secondary.”  As my version of this driver does not have a motion sensor, many of these pins don’t pertain to me.

Pin 311 is a very useful pin indeed, and something I wish was replicated for the optical programming side of things.  I have long wished to be able for the light to blink out a code for me to be able to identify the specific program my light is in.  There is a finite but astounding number of possibilities….

So as you can see, the white/on and red/off is an important way to see what’s going on with your current switch setup.

Pins that change Switches

In case you aren’t keeping track, pins we’ve covered til now haven’t changed any of the switches.  The others only identify things, aside from pin 4, which changes the File.  All the 33X pins change something about the switches.  In fact, they iterate the state of the switch.

Pin 331: Locator beacon in standby mode

tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
tap [pause very briefly]

This action iterates whether the locator beacon (a single secondary flash every few seconds) is on or off in standby mode.  I personally find locator beacon annoying.

Pin 332: Motion sense on/off

tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
tap tap [pause very briefly]

Again, my light does not have motion sense, so while I can iterate this switch, it does nothing at all.

Pin 333: Motion sense timing profile

tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
tap tap tap [pause very briefly]

Same as above; my light does not have motion sense, so while I can iterate this switch, it does nothing at all.

Pin 334: Mode number configuration

tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
tap tap tap tap [pause very briefly]

This iterates whether you have the “new layout with 8 modes in one line” or the “legacy 4+4 modes in two lines.”  New is considered “off” and blinks red (4x).  Legacy is considered “on” and blinks white (4x).

But what does this mean exactly.  It took me a bit to get this sorted (in my head – in practice it’s very simple.)  The old way, you had a few options:   A single 18350 (the “35”), a single 18650 (the “70”) or two 18350 cells in one 70 body.  The light didn’t differentiate between a 18350 and 18650 – setup was the same.  You had 4 modes, and that was that.  But during programming, you could select the “Two in series” cell configuration, and you’d have four other modes.  (Still just a max of four modes at any given setup, but with 2 cells they could be different modes.)

Now what’s changed here?  Well, first of all the page for optical programming has not changed.  As you can see below, so it still is no matter what BOSS you’re programming.

lux-rc 371 v2.0 programming page

So you’ll still be looking at the page which differentiates single and double cell setups, making this page a little confusing.

However with the new firmware, you have the option to have either the way it used to be (“4+4” – essentially different modes depending on your cell setup at the moment), or you can have access to all eight of those modes no matter what your cell setup.  And in truth it doesn’t have to be eight modes – you can program down from 8 to four modes if you wish.

I’d call this smarter anyway, since the driver is smart enough to prevent overpowering a single cell.  Ie, it’s not going to try to run afterburner from a single cell (18350 or 18650).  And since we know the driver won’t voluntarily overpower a cell, why not just have access to all 8 modes at one time?  On the 371d, a single cell output was limited to 17W.  But with 371 v2.0, single cell has been limited to 19W, which is a little spec bump.  This does mean that on a single cell setup, if you have any modes higher than 19W, they’ll max at 19W.

All in all the 8 mode (new) is a better setup, unless you have a specific application for 1 cell vs 2 cells.

Pin 335: Standby mode with locator beacon for McClicky

tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
tap tap tap tap tap [pause very briefly]

Here’s the text from the manual about this bit.

Standby mode is now implemented also in twisty/mcclicky flashlights. Similar to MOMUI, when the flashlight is in standby mode it consumes almost zero power and may stay in this mode for months with minimal battery discharge.  Flashing standby locator beacon can be enabled in standby mode. Standby mode is selected after a “long half-click”. A “short half-click” in standby mode resumes normal operation. Depending on the memory settings flashlight may return to the last mode (memory is ON) or start from the 1st mode (memory is OFF).

I found this mode to be absolutely confounding…. It seems to play with the clicky action in a way that makes it seem like the clicky isn’t working about half the time.  So I’d say leave this one set to “off” or if you just want to play around with it, realize that this is probably the setting that’s giving you difficulty.  I can’t say exactly why it’s so problematic, but I’m sure it has to do with how the driver is trying to interpret “long half-clicks” and “short half-clicks.”

Essentially, don’t buy the upgrade for this feature.  Buy it for the many others.

Pin 336: Double click action configuration

tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
tap tap tap tap tap tap [pause very briefly]

More text from the manual:

Two PINs control double-click function. PIN “336” sets the double-click action. PIN “337” enables and disables double-click support in twisty/mcclicky flashlights. Note that double-click is always enabled in momentary button flashlights.

It’s more important to talk about Pin 337 first, because with 337 disabled “Off/red”, then double click does nothing.  So with 337 off, 336 is irrelevant.  But with 337 on/white, the McClicky has a double click capability (from off only, of course.)

And with double click enabled, 336 can switch between what double click can do.  This setup is just a little bit dependent on another setting – pin 334.  Thus the double click result will depend then on quite a few things….  Pin 334, and pin 337.  If you have 4+4, double click on, and double click set to “forward hop” then the double click action is dependent upon how many cells you have in the light.  Either way, it’s to the fourth mode, and that fourth mode can be any of the settings available through optical programming.  But if you have your light set up to the new 8 “in line” modes, double click will go to mode 8 regardless of how many cells are installed.

I’ll describe that above as “just a sample” of what you can do with the configurations of these three switches.  That’s obviously not all and there are [some permutation of] possibilities.  It’s really up to you to flesh this out how you want it.

Also don’t forget that these switches are per File.  So you may have one file set up some way, and another file programmed (optically) in exactly the same way but with different switches, and you can have a completely different user experience.

Pin 337: Double click support for McClicky

tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
tap tap tap [pause very briefly]
tap tap tap tap tap tap tap [pause very briefly]

No video on this, because when I was filming I was having the issue with pin 335…  the locator beacon was confounding my programming.

Video would be the same as the others, and the result on iteration will be 7 white blinks (double click is on/white) or 7 red blinks (double click is off/red).  This, at least, is a very simple switch.

Momentary Switch

The manual also covers a ton of information for momentary switches – that is not a momentary forward clicky switch.  MOM in this sense regards always connected switches, aka electronic switches (e-switches).  But this post is only covering BOSS lights, which are never e-switch lights, and it’s not a manual of Lux-RC products, so I won’t mention that further than what I’ve said here.

371 v2.0 Summary

After all this, is the 371 v2.0 an upgrade you’ll want to do?  That’s hard for me to say.  I have always been extremely happy with the BOSS lights as they were, with 371d.  And that absolutely did not change when 371 v2.0 was released.  I find four modes to be plenty in most cases, except when either there’s no moonlight, or the total output is >3000 lumens or something.

Dan and the others from Oveready are still deciding on how pricing of this upgrade will go, and the specifics.  Sounds like what will happen is a purchasable item will be available approximately quarterly on the site.  You’ll purchase the upgrade, and send your light in.

I’ll say one more thing about this new firmware.  There’s a LOT you can chose to have to remember.  I personally could never remember which switches I had setup in which files.  Thus, I’d have all the file set up with all the same switches.  I’ll also likely have a hard time remembering exactly what all the 7 switches do, and how I have them set up (even if they’re the same on all 4 files.)  As such, I’ve limited the possibilities of the new firmware.  Anything that relies on my memory (including “mode memory”) is something I’m not going to enjoy.  If I can’t click the light and always know what’s going to happen, I’m going to be frustrated.  So while all these new features are absolutely incredible, I’m voluntarily hamstringing myself so that I’ll have a usable light for me.

Either way this is decidedly an upgrade.  I say that definitely because you can still run the light entirely the “old way” if you want, and you have the option to do more if you wish.

Long Review

Just because my post is mostly about stuff I’ve already covered above, doesn’t mean I didn’t do some new art for the project!  The photos on the original BOSS review have never pleased me completely, so I reshot everything, and also included some stuff that I do now, that I didn’t do then.  Probably text will be light from here to the end, but I hope you’ll forgive that.

What’s Included

torchlab boss 35 and 70 what's included

Package and Manual

torchlab boss 35 and 70

Build Quality and Disassembly

torchlab boss 70

torchlab boss 35 beside 70

torchlab boss 35 beside 70

That’s an aftermarket orange boot below, but Oveready also has these available.  You might sweet talk Dan into swapping one for you.

torchlab boss boot on 35 and 70

One of my most loved, probably most irrelevant features – a bezel that doesn’t block all the light when headstanding!

torchlab boss bezel lets light out

torchlab boss triad tailcap

torchlab boss 35 headstanding

torchlab boss dimples

torchlab boss pocket clip

torchlab boss pocket clip

torchlab boss

torchlab boss three circles on body

torchlab boss three circles on body

torchlab boss threads

torchlab boss spring in head and tail

torchlab boss 70 with cell

torchlab boss tailcap

torchlab boss tailstanding

torchlab boss tailstanding

These little delrin caps are a must if you buy a combo – 35 and 70.  They protect whichever body you aren’t using.

torchlab boss delrin cap

torchlab boss delrin cap spring

Size and Comps

At least in the case of the 70, the light isn’t really too long – It’s less than a mm longer than the Convoy S2+, which I consider a fine size for pocket carry.  The 35 is long for an 18350 size light, but if the 70 isn’t too long, then of course the 35 isn’t either.

torchlab boss size guide

I have carried the light in the 70 format extensively, and I love the size of it.  It clips nicely, and I don’t find it too large.  I carry the 35 off and on, and wish for that light I wish the pocket clip was a little deeper.

If a light will headstand, I’ll show it here (usually the third photo).  If a light will tailstand, I’ll show that here, too (usually the fourth photo).

Here’s the test light with the venerable Convoy S2+.  Mine’s a custom “baked” edition Nichia 219b triple.  A very nice 18650 light.

And here’s the light beside my custom engraved TorchLAB BOSS 35, an 18350 light.  I reviewed the aluminum version of that light in both 35 and 70 formats.

Retention and Carry

torchlab boss 35 pocket clip

This pocket clip is the Silver Standard.  Gold Standard is the new TorchLAB BOSS FT Speed Clip.  They’re all great, of course.

torchlab boss 70 pocket clip

Power and Runtime

torchlab boss 70 with cell

torchlab boss 70 with cell installed

torchlab boss 35 with cell

torchlab boss 35 with cell installed

I actually ran a bunch of runtimes (probably 6 or so) in order to demonstrate that this new driver caps at 19W no matter what the mode setup is with one cell.  And does in fact go higher than 19W when the setup is with two cells.  But that’s not really the point of this post, and this post is decidedly long enough by now….

User Interface and Operation

Most of this has been covered above in the new firmware section, but I’ll just throw in right here quickly that these are forward clicky lights.  Specifically they have McClicky switches, which are made by McGizmo.

torchlab boss switch boot cover

torchlab boss switch boot cover

That little o-ring you can see there is a pressure fit o-ring that holds the switch cover in place.

torchlab boss switch boot covers

torchlab boss switch boot cover is flush

LED and Beam

Irrelevant to this discussion on the new firmware, but my emitters in this BOSS are Cree XP-L HI at 4000K.  And I absolutely adore them.  Other choices are available.

There’s also an option for the secondary emitter:  red and amber can be had.  When I bought, only red was available.  If I had my choices I’d go with amber for possibly no reason except novelty.

There’s a narrow TIR optic to compliment the throwy XP-L HI.  I actually don’t have a huge preference here but I like the beam profile of the BOSS just fine.  Since optics are so cheap, and the boss has a completely standard optic, it’s easy to buy and try other optics.  Floody, medium, and narrow are the other choices, and some or all of those are available as frosted.  So there are plenty of choices, and the optic is very easy to change.  Note that depending on how you ordered your BOSS, you may or may not need a special tool to unscrew the bezel.  Some, for a short while, were shipped with the bezel tightened down so much that unscrewing them was effectively impossible.  TorchLAB has designed a set of wrenches – very clever wrenches might I add – that will allow very easy removal.  I bought a set both for removing my bezel, and just to quell my curiosity on what Oveready had come up with.  They work absolutely fantastically, and they’re very clever to boot.  What’s more, they allow easy access with zero potential for damaging the finish on the light.  That was important to me and was done well.

If you notice very carefully in the image below, you can see that the legs of my optic have tritium installed!  That’s an aftermarket purchase I made, and installed myself.  Practically useless, but sometimes fun.

torchlab boss emitters with tritium optic

Conclusion

What I like

  • BOSS flashlights
  • Oveready hard anodizing
  • The new 371 v2.0 firmware
  • Cree XP-L HI 4000K
  • 18350, 18350×2, and 18650 support

What I don’t like

  • Having to remember things about my flashlight
  • Crippling so many awesome features of a flashlight by not being able to remember my settings

Notes

  • This light was provided by me for review. I was not paid to write this review.  I received upgraded firmware at no cost.
  • This content originally appeared at zeroair.org.  Please visit there for the best experience!
  • For flashlight-related patches, stickers, and gear, head over to PhotonPhreaks, another site where I write!
  • Use my amazon.com referral link if you’re willing to help support making more reviews like this one!

6 thoughts on “TorchLAB BOSS “5.1” – 371 v2.0 (by Lux-RC) Firmware Guide”

    1. I got a number of them from Oveready. That’s probably where I’d start looking. If you’re familiar with many of the Chinese sites out there – you’re likely to find some that’ll work there, too. Not sure they’re exactly the same though.

  1. Ho Lee Crap! That was a lot of info. I found myself giggling in the middle. Nice work! Also, what does the motion sensor do? I know it senses motion…

    1. Hope it was useful! It was quite a task to write, and to be honest, I think it could be 3x as long and might still not fully document the possibilities of this driver!

      There will be a post soon about the 371 v2.0 driver that does have motion sense. It’ll be pretty much the same probably, but will cover all that other stuff. So it’ll cover more of the BOSS you have, I think?

      Broadly speaking, the motion sensor allows you to leave the light on, and have it shut off after a while, and when you pick it back up, it’ll turn back on.

      Honestly it’s neat but ¯_(ツ)_/¯ I find it somewhat useless bordering on annoying.

  2. Not sure if it is relevant to this topic, but I am planning to install a 371 V2 in an electric switch flashlight. Why did you say (don’t remember where, maybe in Reddit?) it was the worst switch for this light engine?

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